Rye--Brooklyn

718.218.8047

Before I begin a few brief definitions:

Beef Short Ribs, IMPS/NAMP 123 & 130
Beef Short Ribs are old favorites. Providing a rich, deep flavor, short ribs lend themselves to a variety of ethnic flavors becoming the star item on trendy menus.
Short Ribs contain at least 2 but no more than 5 ribs (ribs 6 through 10). The diaphragm muscle and heavy connective tissue are removed. Short ribs are frequently cut into individual pieces. They are also cut across the bone into thick or thin crosscut pieces and can be ordered boneless.

Beef Rib Eye Steak:
Beef Rib, Ribeye Steak, IMPS/NAMP 1112 & 1112B
Convenient and versatile, these boneless steaks can be ordered any thickness for a variety of menu options. Ribeye Steaks offer great plate coverage and impressive presentations.
Cuts in the IMPS/NAMP 1112 series can be specified. Each includes more specific cutting, trimming and boning specifications.

When I spoke to a dear friend who is a chef for clarification purposes, he said that they are absolutely different cuts of meat: The rib eye being a muscle that holds the ribcage together beneath the sternum and runs the length of the cow, the short rib being the meat that is actually attached to the lower rib. This was later confirmed by a very friendly butcher at Marlowe and Daughters--evidently, my reputation has subsided (see soon to come Diner post). I didn’t mention Rye in particular as the two are distant cousins on the same restaurant lineage, but he was utterly shocked that anyone would be stupid enough to pass a short rib for a rib eye. He even took me into his meat locker, a walk in box with huge pieces of cow lying about, to show me the difference between a rib-eye steak and a short rib. After that educational field trip I would say that a rib eye steak is a big juicy, fatty steak, where as a rib steak, or rib roll steak, is what most people would consider to be a short rib, which in turn is delicious when prepared properly but not so much when prepared like a rib eye steak, that is grilled. So before I begin with Rye, I must say that I had a complete slam-dunk on my hands. A no questions asked, ‘he is absolutely fucking right’ slam dunk. And like most know-it-alls I wanted only a simple ‘you’re right’ to assuage my undying desire for vindication….

We went to dinner at Rye with high hopes, and though the oak bar and comfort food menu was a glaring redundancy if you walked two blocks in just about any direction, we were happy to see familiar faces go out on their own, since two owners my companions have known for years at Dumont/Dressler. I ordered the mixed green salad, incredibly reminiscent of Dumont sans the flavor, and then ordered the Rib Eye Steak. Imagine my surprise when I was delivered a short rib, complete with rope ties to keep it rolled. I beckoned my waitress, who didn’t arrive until the manager—the lovely, graceful manager who I won’t name here but has vocationed through Williamsburg-- had already received my complaint. They both reassured me that what I was served was indeed a rib eye steak. I also should remind you, that this is a 28-dollar entrée. Nonetheless, they claimed that my confusion was due to the sauce, beef bourginon (which I assume is a take on the bourguignon sauce—glazed onions, mushrooms, and bacon) which had pieces of short rib in it. Right, that’s it. I somehow confused the sauce with the actual cut of meat.

It ruined dinner. I couldn’t shut up about it and for that I’m sorry for my dinner companions. And as much as I hate to go on about it even now, they did not serve what they were advertising. I think this place has potential, and since I’m posting this about a month after their unofficial opening, it will be interesting to see how they do. I know that I won’t be there to see it though, because I’m not paying $28 for a short rib.